Cat hygiene. How to care for it?

Kocia higiena - kotek liżący się po łapce

Many cat owners believe that their cat is able to take care of its own cleanliness, and that any hygiene procedures related to the cat's body are unnecessary - claws dull themselves from frolicking on the scratching post, the moulting process takes care of any visits to the hairdresser (or rather: groomer), and a cat dentist is simply a whim of purebred couch potatoes from big cities. Of course, you can leave the cat to its own devices, but the effect will be similar to that of a human who decided to abandon hygiene in accordance with the principle that dirt up to an inch is harmless, and above that - it falls off by itself.

At Animal Island, we know that cats need our support in maintaining hygiene, because this process is not only about clean and shiny fur - the aesthetic calling card of the animal - but above all about health. Skin, teeth and oral cavity, earlobes or paws are places that the cat is not able to take care of sufficiently on its own.

Cat hygiene

The cat will take care of its own fur, but in some situations it needs our help. Find out when you should step in!

The sight of a pet cleaning its fur is touching to every cat lover. During hygiene procedures, the animal can assume the most complicated positions, some of which resemble asanas, or yoga positions. It is worth knowing that even these visually pleasing contortions do not guarantee that the cat's rough tongue will reach all areas of the body. It will not reach, for example, behind the ears, on the top of the head or under the chin. This is precisely why cats like to be scratched and stroked by humans in these places, because it is the only opportunity for sensations comparable to those guaranteed by licking with a rough tongue - one of the true miracles of nature.
A cat's tongue is covered with keratinous papillae that look like tiny hooks. Keratin, as you probably remember, is also the building block of human fingernails. When you look at a cat's tongue under a microscope, you might get the impression that these hooks are microscopic claws. Thanks to this specific structure, it is possible not only to comb the fur, but also to collect all kinds of dirt from it: dust, parasites and their larvae or eggs, as well as dead hair.

The good news is that a cat really can lick itself clean. The bad news is that all of this ends up in the cat's stomach. Regardless of whether our pet is a short-haired alley cat or belongs to one of the long-haired breeds, we will not avoid the problem of hairballs in cats, i.e. hairballs that form in the digestive tract, which specialists call bezoars, pilobezoars or trichobezoars. Such a ball of fur can effectively block the digestive tract, causing choking, characteristic coughing, vomiting (often the cat tries to vomit but is unable to throw up anything), constipation and loss of appetite. To prevent the formation of bezoars, it is worth using occasional anti-hairball pastes, i.e. those that dissolve hairballs, and in the case of cats particularly susceptible to their formation - special food (you will find the word Hairball on the packaging).

Did you know that…

The characteristic cat behavior when trying to regurgitate a hairball made it to one of the most famous movie scenes – the scene with Puss in Boots (Puffy) in the second part of the cult animated film about Shrek.

Although the scene is hilarious, there is no joking around with bezoars. Hairballs can cause loss of appetite, abdominal pain, chronic constipation and, finally, inflammation in the intestines and stomach, which can lead to serious complications!

It can even lead to intestinal necrosis and rupture of its wall (perforation) or to intussusception (sliding of one part of the intestine into another). If you suspect that your pet has a problem getting rid of bezoars, it is necessary to visit a vet and administer antispasmodic, painkilling and anti-inflammatory drugs.

It is worth being aware that the problem of hairballs may be worse during shedding seasons, but in long-haired cats it occurs regardless of the season. Some cats never experience a problem with hairballs: they help themselves by nibbling on grass, which provokes a natural gag reflex, and simply regurgitate the excess hair licked off or get rid of it in their feces.

Since we don't know why some cats cope with hairballs and others don't, it's worth observing your pet and reacting quickly to the symptoms described above.
In the process of licking itself, in addition to the "magic" tongue, saliva also takes part. It contains enzymes that to some extent help protect damaged tissues from developing infections and those that help the cat get rid of other people's odors (e.g. ours - if we were petting the cat...).

Cat language is also a tool for showing friendly feelings to other cats – animals that like and trust each other tend to lick each other. We call this social grooming.

It is estimated that cats spend up to 1/3 of their waking hours licking their fur. It is worth knowing that if your cat licks themselves excessively, e.g. on their belly, which leads to baldness and erosions and wounds, it may be a sign of stress, not hygiene. You should definitely visit a vet and/or a behaviorist!

Combing a Cat

Brushing your cat is one of the basic and essential care procedures. Why, what and how often should you brush your cat?

We choose a tool for combing our pet depending on the type and structure of the hair, bearing in mind that the coat is different for each species of cat. Long-haired cats with silky or cottony hair (Persian, Maine Coon, Siberian, Norwegian Forest, Ragdoll) require different care than short-haired cats (Singaporean, Snowshoe, Scottish Fold, LaPerm or European, known as the roof cat).

The length of the coat also determines the frequency of brushing: Persians should be brushed every day to avoid tangles, other long-haired breeds 2-3 times a week are enough, and short-haired cats once a week.

Kittens start trying to groom themselves in the first weeks of their lives, but the instinct to wash themselves is stimulated by their mother. If we adopt kittens whose mother has not managed to teach them to wash themselves, we can help them by using a soft toothbrush. Stimulation of the delicate fur is enough for the kitten to undertake self-care activities.

To brush long-haired cats, we need a whole set of accessories, which includes:

  • a brush with longer teeth (this has to be a grooming brush, not a hairbrush borrowed from the lady; avoid brushes with balls at the ends, because they do not help the condition of the hair), a so-called poodle (it has soft, slightly curved needles with delicate ends, which are flexible enough to easily comb through thick fur and strong enough not to bend or break),
  • a fine and loose comb (allows effective removal of the undercoat),
  • a glove that simultaneously massages the body and combs out dead hair.

For combing short-haired cats, a poodle brush and a gentle Furminator are enough, which is worth using mainly to remove excess fur, which your pet may swallow, risking the formation of bezoars. If a short-haired cat is afraid of a brush, you can use a combing glove, the protrusions of which will guarantee the animal a pleasant massage.

A furminator is a type of trimmer (but not every trimmer is a furminator) – it allows you to trim, or remove dead hair from the undercoat. This tool has been popular in grooming salons for years, and recently, in a slightly simpler version, also among cat owners themselves.

The effectiveness of trimming depends on our skill. The furminator comb consists of small metal teeth that are very close together, which means that it removes hair from the undercoat without damaging the outer coat: it does not break it, does not pull it out or pull it. The furminator is especially useful during shedding periods.

Hairless cats do not need to be combed, but they do require regular moisturising and oiling of their skin. The top layer of the epidermis is subject to exfoliation, and a soft material glove will be useful for removing dead skin (it can be double-sided, with a polishing material that makes it shiny).

FHS (Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome), or the wavy skin syndrome and the healing power of touch

One of the problems that cat owners may encounter (breeds that are particularly predisposed to its occurrence include Siamese, Abyssinian, Burmese or Himalayan cats) is FHS (Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome), also known as skin rolling, feline skin hyperesthesia or psychomotor epilepsy.

One of the symptoms of FHS is a waving/wrinkling/twitching of the skin in the back of the cat's body. This specific tightening of the subcutaneous muscles may precede an attack, during which a number of other symptoms appear, e.g. very high arousal, salivation, paroxysmal licking of the back of the body, but it can also occur spontaneously. It is believed that one of the causes of FSH is, right next to an excess of stressful stimuli, boredom and loneliness in cats.

Adding cuddles is not always a good solution, because it is an additional stressor. In such a case, the cat's owner should devote more time to the cat and provide time for calm and regular contact in the form the cat likes the most, including stroking and gentle touch/massage with a glove focused only on those areas of the body that are safe in terms of skin ripples, so mainly the head and muzzle area.

Did you know that…

Well-groomed cat fur maintains its color better, which is especially important for white-coated animals, which are prone to dirt and discoloration. Dirt will penetrate damaged and broken hair with open scales very quickly. Therefore, white cats should be carefully combed and cosmetics designed for white fur, including conditioners that intensify whiteness, should be used occasionally.

Note: bleaching products (whitening) can dry out the hair and damage its structure, so they should not be used systematically, for everyday care, but rather for special occasions, e.g. before an exhibition. Such cosmetics, similarly to rinses for blond human hair, are dark blue or purple in color and are always diluted before use. If we prepare a product diluted in the wrong proportions or leave the shampoo on the coat for too long, instead of a white effect, we will get a blue or purple effect.

Trimming your cat's claws

Are you afraid of hurting your cat while trimming their claws? Trimming your cat's claws is not as difficult as you think!

Cats that go outside and roam the area do not need their claws trimmed because they wear them down on trees and other hard objects they encounter during their wanderings. However, we advise against letting our pets outside the house because we know how important safety is! Sometimes indoor cats can wear down their claws on scratching posts.

That's why trimming your pet's claws shouldn't be a routine grooming activity. Only do it if your cat hurts you while playing because the claws are too long and sharp to hide in the folds of the paws.

Each cat's toe has three phalanges, and the animal's body weight rests on two. The last one bends upwards thanks to ligaments that connect to the muscles and tendons of the paws, which causes the claw on the last part of the toe to hide in a fold of skin. The cat quickly extends the claw only when it needs to and can retract it just as quickly.

From the perspective of a human playing with a cat, clawed claws look like the above-described tongue hooks. This means that if our cat digs a claw into our hand and pulls on the paw, it will hurt us severely.

Before you start cutting your cat's claws, see how they are built. With this knowledge, you will avoid damaging the innervated and blood-supplied tissue. It is visible as a pink part of the transparent claw. The cutting line should be horizontal. If the cat is struggling and does not allow you to touch its paws, it is better to go to the vet to avoid human casualties?

At Animal Island we know that cats don't like having their paws touched, especially their pads, because these are some of the most sensitive places on their bodies. Their paw pads are the only place on their bodies that have sweat glands, and this is also where the scent glands are located - when your cat scratches, it also leaves its scent behind.

A cat's paws are a large concentration of nerve receptors, allowing cats to feel changes in the texture of the ground, pressure, and even vibrations. The pads are particularly sensitive to temperature, pressure, and pain.

Special scissors, also known as guillotines, are used to cut cat claws. They have a special recess in one of the blades, on which you can conveniently place the cat's claw, and then cut it by lowering the other blade.

Brushing your cat's teeth

Cat at the dentist? Yes, feline dental prophylaxis is no different than human dental prophylaxis!

Your cat should visit the dentist once a year for preventive care. During such a visit, the condition of the teeth is checked, and if necessary, tartar is removed and diseased or loose teeth are removed. These procedures are performed under general anaesthesia. Poor health or advanced age may be a contraindication to administering anaesthesia.

Advanced dental and periodontal diseases and recurrent gum inflammation can cause further diseases, such as kidney disorders. Gingivitis is a consequence of tartar formation and developing dental diseases, i.e. neglect of hygiene, but the cause can also be viral infection (herpesvirus - resembling the human herpes virus, FeLV, FIV and calicivirus).

Inflammations in the cat's mouth may also be the result of a weakened immune system and signal that your pet suffers from autoimmune diseases.

Ideally, you should brush your cat's teeth every day, but 2-3 times a week is effective prevention. Your cat must be accustomed to any grooming around its mouth from a young age, otherwise it will not want to cooperate. To brush your cat's teeth, lift your pet's head at an angle of about 45 degrees and pull back its lip with your fingers - you don't have to force its mouth open. It is important that the teeth and gums are visible.

The rough tongue of a cat cleans the inner surface of the teeth by itself, so focus on their outer surfaces. The toothbrush should be set at a 45° angle to the tooth surface. After the ablution is finished, reward the cat - for this occasion it is worth stocking up on snacks that help maintain good dental condition and a nice smell from the mouth.

Use only veterinary toothpastes; using toothpastes for humans can cause fluoride poisoning for your pet. At first, use a gauze wrapped around your finger or a regular cotton bud, and with time you can reach for a children's toothbrush or a veterinary double-headed toothbrush - it cleans both surfaces of the teeth at the same time, shortening the procedure time, which is very important in the case of impatient cats.

Cleaning Cat's Ears

A cat's ear is a very precise sensory organ. It is worth taking care of it, but not by force.

We do not clean cat ears prophylactically, but only when a veterinarian recommends it or the cat simply gets dirty. Unnecessary manipulation of cat ears can result in overproduction of earwax, itching, burning and skin irritation. However, if we notice that the cat is scratching its ears, rubbing its head against various objects, we need to look into its ears.

Excessive earwax or a change in the color of the inner ear can indicate illness. A very common feline disease is ear mites, which occurs especially in outdoor and free-roaming cats.

Cat ears can be cleaned with regular cotton buds, because they are constructed differently than human ears and there is no risk of damaging the eardrum. If, however, we are afraid to use a cotton bud, because too rapid a movement of an inexperienced hand could push the wax deeper into the ear, it is worth reaching for a tissue or a piece of cotton fabric.

There are also special veterinary ear cleaning pads impregnated with cleaning agents and antibacterial wipes available on the market.
To clean cat ears, we can use liquid paraffin, which is available in every pharmacy. We apply 2-3 drops of paraffin directly to the outer part of the auricle, and then gently spread it with our fingers on its inner part.

The sensitivity of a cat's ear is about 60-100 Khz and is twice as high as a dog's ear and five times higher than a human ear! There are over 30 muscles in the auricle, which ensure that the animal can move them comfortably in different directions. A cat can turn its ear 180 degrees to find the source of even the slightest rustling!

Cleaning Your Cat's Eyes

The owners of brachycephalic cats, or short-snouted cats, have the most trouble with proper eye hygiene for their pets (e.g. Persian, British Shorthair). Due to their shallow eye sockets and shortened tear ducts, short-snouted cats often have eye problems.

The festering eyes should be washed with special fluids to prevent infection. You can use saline solution temporarily, but do not use any herbs, such as chamomile. When taking care of your cat's eyes, it is best to use a dressing and then dry the area with a clean cotton pad. A good solution is eye care fluids or wipes, which have a gentle antimicrobial effect, are odorless and hypoallergenic.

One of the more common causes of purulent discharge in the eyes of a cat is a disease called feline fever caused by two viruses: calicivirus and herpesvirus. In turn, watery discharge from the eyes, which only later turns into purulent, and is accompanied by swelling and conjunctival congestion, may be a symptom of chlamydia.

Bathing a cat

Do you know this old and not very wise dialogue from the joke about the shepherd and the tourist? – Shepherd, but you don't wash a cat!!! – You wash, you wash, sir – just don't twist it! Well, you do wash a cat, but… It's a myth that all cats hate water. Wild cats – jaguars, tigers – are excellent swimmers, and domestic cats do not differ in general body structure from their wild brothers, which means that they also have the ability to swim. Only, not all of them like…

Cats with flattened snouts (they can easily choke or have trouble breathing) and long, thick fur (it becomes heavy and restricts movement when wet) have trouble swimming. Domestic breeds that are the result of crossbreeding with wild cats (e.g. Bengals or Norwegian Forest cats) love to swim!

It's the same with bathing - some cats enjoy it, others can't be bathed and that's it!

Is bathing a cat necessary? Reasons that should prompt us to bathe our pet include: flea infestation or other external parasites, heavy dirt, obesity or illness that makes self-grooming difficult. Some breeds require more frequent bathing and these are, paradoxically, hairless breeds, such as the Sphynx, whose skin secretes more sebum than breeds with a hair coat, which not only looks unsightly but can also cause dermatological problems, such as acne. On the other hand, exhibition cats are usually bathed about 7 days before the event.

How to bathe a cat step by step?

  1. Carefully place your cat in the water, avoiding sudden movements.
    1. Wet your cat's fur with your hand, moving from the shoulder blades towards the tail.
      1. Apply a small amount of shampoo to your hands and spread over your cat’s fur.
        1. Do not wash your dog's face with shampoo – just wipe it with a wet towel.
          1. Be careful not to get water into your cat's eyes or ears.
            1. Rinse off the shampoo thoroughly with a gentle stream.
              1. Remove the cat from the water and wrap it in a towel. Dry your pet by gently kneading the fur with the towel. If the cat is not afraid of the sound of the dryer, you can also dry it with a gentle stream, but be careful not to blow into its ears and nose.

Only use veterinary shampoos for washing… oops… bathing your cat. The skin pH of animals and humans is different and human cosmetics, even if they are hypoallergenic or for children, can irritate the skin of animals. If you are afraid to bathe your pet yourself, you can use grooming treatments in special pet beauty salons.

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